Wednesday, January 8, 2020

Toll Road to Nowhere

Virtually everyone in Flagstaff has at least heard mention of the legendary name "Weatherford." Uncounted tens of thousands of people have passed by or enjoyed the hospitality of downtown's historic Weatherford Hotel.  As time passes and newcomers flood into Flagstaff, Weatherford's other big project fades fast into obscurity. 

Even those who might chance to hike all or a portion of The Weatherford Trail #102 may not fully know the Story of The San Francisco Scenic Mountain Boulevard, an expensive pipe dream that turned into a road to nowhere.  This post attempts to give a brief overview of the road.  James Babbitt wrote a definitive discussion of the project and his work is cited at the end of this post.

Source of photo:
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/flagstaff-az-san-francisco-scenic-1809912940
The San Francisco Scenic Mountain Boulevard had an average grade of 8 % with maximum grades of 11%.  It's hairpin switchbacks can still clearly be seen on Google Earth.

Source of photo:
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/arizona-mountain-boulevard-flagstaff-2017046023

John W. Weatherford was born October 24, 1859, in Weatherford, Texas.  He arrived in Flagstaff in 1887 and promptly made a major difference in the community by building a large hotel which remains a beloved Flagstaff lodging landmark and legendary watering hole.  In 1895, Weatherford rode a horse to the top of the Peaks and that's when the glimmer of an idea for a future toll road first took hold.  Success of the Pike's Peak toll road further captured Weatherford's attention and in 1915 he applied for a permit from the Forest Service to build a similar road to the top of The San Francisco Peaks. 

(Adapted from source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41696969 See note at end of post.)

Source of Weatherford photo:
http://archive.library.nau.edu/digital/collection/cpa/id/11223/rec/1

After much bureaucratic wrangling, Weather had his permit in hand by May 1916. He incorporated the San Francisco Scenic Mountain Boulevard Company in August 1917 and tried to sell stock.  The stock idea didn't go over well in Flagstaff or anywhere else but Weatherford forged ahead.  Construction eventually began in 1920 with completion of the first two miles of the road. 

(Adapted from source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41696969 See note at end of post.)

Source of stock certificate image:
http://library.nau.edu/speccoll/exhibits/sca/collect/manusrpt/sf.html

"Nevertheless, work continued during the summer months of 1921, 1922, and 1923. By the spring of 1924, some seven miles of road had been completed. On June 9, a group of prominent Flagstaff businessmen that included Tim Riordan, E. A. Haight, K. J. Nackard, and David Babbitt drove over the completed portion of the route. They enthusiastically endorsed the project." 

(Adapted from source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41696969 See note at end of post.)

Source of photo:
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/flagstaff-az-san-francisco-scenic-1809912940

We were roaming eBay on January 8, 2020 looking at new listings under the category "Flagstaff postcard" when we found three views of the San Francisco Scenic Mountain Boulevard.  Although we first heard of the road in 1980 as "The Weatherford Road," we had never looked into the subject.  Today's post is a result of the chance finding of those three views on eBay. The three views include this one and the next two below.

Source of photo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flagstaff-Arizona-San-Francisco-Peaks-Mountain-hand-colored-1920s-Postcard-13153/372903181332
By mid-1926, construction crews had completed 10.4 miles of steep, narrow road to the Fremont Saddle-enough for Weather ford to stage a grand opening ceremony. At 9:30 on the morning of August 19, local drivers lined up on Leroux Street, as Boy Scouts distributed souvenirs of the occasion. Some 170 automobiles made the trip to Fremont Saddle, where Flagstaff I.O.O.F. lodge members served a picnic luncheon. Dr. Earl Slipher of Lowell Observatory set up a telescope at the end of the road that allowed sightseers to gaze over the Grand Canyon and into six different states." 

(Adapted from source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41696969 See note at end of post.)

Source of photo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flagstaff-Arizona-Hand-Colored-1920s-Postcard-San-Francisco-Mountain-13162/402026291566
The stock market crash of 1929 put a permanent damper on both use and lengthening of the road.  Weatherford died January 7, 1934.  The Forest Service revoked the special use permit January 19, 1938.  Altogether, $150,000 was purported to have been spent on the road. 

(Adapted from source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41696969 See note at end of post.)

Source of photo:


Weatherford's widow and possibly some early investors pushed a claim of $15,500 from the federal government.  In 1939 President Roosevelt weighed in against such a claim. However, after much more bureaucratic and political wranglings, the claim was approved in June 1942.  Investors received a whisker more than seven cents for each share of stock they owned. 

(Adapted from source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41696969 See note at end of post.)

The link below this screen clip goes to a more or less complete official account of how the $15,500 claim was finally reimbursed.
http://bit.ly/36DAI1Y


Perhaps the most notable use of Weatherford's old road to nowhere is the annual War Dog Race each October.  Northern Arizona Trail Runners Association members and guests climb 3,000 feet to Doyle Saddle along the rock strewn old right of way and then return for a total of 15 miles. The Way Dog event began in 1981, just three years before creation of the federal Kachina Peaks Wilderness area.

The steep trail continues to attract more hikers each year as visitors venture out to enjoy the splendor of The San Francisco Peak while pondering a piece of bygone history about a road to nowhere.

Here is a very thorough history of the War Dog. The photos here were taken from a slideshow at this link:
https://www.natra.org/history

Here's a great 10+ minute video of the 2012 War Dog with an account of its founding:
https://youtu.be/AWABn-B0W4g

The photo below showing War Dog runners on the old Weatherford Road gives a good idea of what that route must have looked like for early autoists and wagoneers traveling the steep grade up to Doyle Saddle and back.

NOTE: Any narrative in quotes above was taken directly from the source shown here and is believed to be within the Fair Use guidelines of U.S. Copyright Law.  All other narrative regarding the Weatherford Road is adapted in our own words from content in the source below and is likewise believed to be within Fair Use guidelines of U.S. Copyright Law.  Mr. Babbitt's article on the Weatherford Road is quite likely to be the best and definitive assessment of the subject.

Babbitt, James E. “THE IMPASSIBLE DREAM: John W. Weatherford's San Francisco Mountain Boulevard.” The Journal of Arizona History, vol. 47, no. 2, 2006, pp. 173–184. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/41696969

Note: Mr. Babbitt's article states the Kachina Peaks Wilderness was designated in 1978.  It was designated in 1984. See: https://wilderness.net/visit-wilderness/?ID=285


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